Incredible Hospitality in Albania
Updated: Aug 2
For our second visit to Albania, in addition to taking in the rugged mountain passes and turquoise waters, what made it truly unforgettable was experiencing the astonishing, genuine warmth of the people. Throughout our time in Gjirokastër and Përmet, we didn't just meet local hosts; we were welcomed into people's lives with open arms.
Arquile at Grandma’s Home in Gjirokastër
In Gjirokastër, we had originally booked a hostel in town, but when a large group needed space, the owner referred us to Arquile at Grandma’s Home—a historic guesthouse perched high on the steep mountain slope, overlooking the old town center and the Drinos River valley.
To reach the house, you have to haul your gear up a steep 5-minute stone incline from the nearest parking spot. Arquile must be in his 70s, yet he took meticulous care of us throughout our two days there. In the grueling 40°C heat, he carried groceries up the slope to make breakfast and brought us watermelon to quench our thirst.
Using Google Translate, we learned the bittersweet backstory: he used to run the guesthouse alongside his wife (hence the name Grandma’s Home), but she passed away a year ago, leaving him to run the place on his own. Learning this added a touch of sorrow to our stay, but made us appreciate his gentle smile even more.
Before we left, Arquile mentioned that his son lives and works in Toronto, and that he might come to visit Canada in 2027. We exchanged WhatsApp contacts. If he ever makes the journey to Toronto, it will be our turn to be his host.
Home in Përmet: Enriko and Kastrioti’s Family
For six days, our base in Përmet was a family-run guesthouse hosted by Enriko, his father Kastrioti, his mother Mirela, and his brother Luka. Their hospitality went far beyond standard service.
When they realized we needed to cook meals for our family during our stay, they improvised a kitchen by setting up a gas stove on our balcony, complete with a full set of dishes, pots, and cutlery, so we could comfortably prepare our own food.
Enriko was our main contact given his English skills. He is a hardworking, ambitious, and wildly optimistic 22-year-old. While finishing his university degree, he turned years of rafting experience into his own family adventure company. Watching him guide on the Vjosa River, it’s easy to see why he’s racked up over a hundred 5-star reviews—he puts 120% of his heart into making sure every guest leaves smiling. On our rafting day, he guided three back-to-back trips in the blistering sun without losing his enthusiasm.
In the last 5 years, he has earned rafting guide certifications in Austria and Greece. He has traveled to Spain and other countries, yet he is determined to return home to develop the guesthouse and his adventure business alongside his family. Despite heavy taxes and systemic hurdles from the government that take a big chunk of his earnings, Enriko keeps his spirit high. "If you think about the corrupt government all the time, you will just be sad," he told us. Instead, he focuses on growing new tours—hikes, village visits, and fishing trips.
Kastrioti, on the other hand, embodies the quiet strength of his generation. He has shown awe-inspiring resilience and adaptability. He lived through the hardships of the communist era, completed military service, and spent five years working undocumented in Greece and Italy before returning home to raise a family. When tourism began to develop, he built the guesthouse with his own hands and started helping Enriko with the adventure business. He never stops working: driving tours, maintaining the rooms, and greeting clients at Enriko's storefront in the evening. We estimate he must be in his mid or even late 50s, yet he has only recently started learning English and is actively managing the business's Instagram page.
During our time in Përmet, Kastrioti took us on a tour of his ancestral village, Ogdunan. Reaching it required a 4x4 Jeep journey navigating rugged, off-road mountain tracks. Kastrioti lived in Ogdunan until age 11, and knows his village inside out. He painted a vivid picture of its past—when 25 families and 150 people filled the stone houses and a local school was full of kids. Today, like many rural mountain hamlets, youth emigration has left behind only a few elderly residents among the quiet ruins.
Kastrioti brought us to his childhood home to see his beehives, then led us to his cousin’s house where we were welcomed like old friends with homemade cheese and a pour of strong, house-brewed raki. The tour felt less like a tour and more like a friend passionately showing us his beloved home. It was a truly genuine and deeply moving experience.
On our final morning in Përmet, as we rubbed the sleep from our eyes at 4:30 AM to catch the early border bus to Ioannina, Kastrioti was already waiting outside in the dark to walk us to the bus stop and see us off safely.
Turkish Coffee by the Vjosa River
One afternoon, while we were chilling by the banks of the Vjosa River near our guesthouse, we had a serendipitous encounter with some locals.
One of the ladies struck up a conversation with the kids. As we started talking, we learned that she is originally from Albania but now lives in Connecticut working as a middle school teacher. She comes back home to Përmet every summer to spend time with her family and friends.
Through her, we were introduced to her friend—a lively, middle-aged local woman whom we had seen at the beach for the last two days. Even though she didn't speak English, we had already shared a brief interaction the day before when she motioned for Aidan and me to follow her into a section of the river where the current creates a natural water massage.
With the teacher helping translate today, we sat together chatting about vacationing in Përmet. Then, completely out of nowhere, the disco-loving friend started gathering wood to build a small fire right there on the beach, offering to brew us a fresh cup of Turkish coffee.
Sipping hot coffee made right on an open fire next to the turquoise waters of the Vjosa River became one of the most idyllic and unforgettable experiences of the trip. Looking back, two things made that moment possible: traveling with curious, open kids who naturally break the ice with strangers, and the incredibly warm, welcoming hospitality of the Albanian people.
Fond Memories of Albania
Albania may still grapple with political hurdles, economic strain, and the loss of its young people to opportunities abroad. But the strength, generosity, and genuine heart of its people turn a simple trip into a deep, human connection. We didn't just leave Albania with photos—we left with friends we truly hope to see again.
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