Zagori, Greece: Crisp Mountain Air and Unexpected Celebrations
Zagori has a special place in my heart. Looking back at the entire trip, I would say Zagori was my favorite place of all.
Zagori is a stunning mountain region sprinkled with 46 historic stone villages. As soon as we arrived, we could immediately feel the higher altitude and the crisp, cooler air—such a welcome contrast from the relentless heat of Albania and the rest of Greece. We chose to base ourselves in Vitsa, a smaller and relatively quiet village.
Even though we only stayed for three short days, our itinerary was packed with adventure:
Wandering through and climbing around the surreal limestone formations of the Stone Forest.
Admiring and hiking along the towering cliffs of the Vikos Gorge.
Exploring and playing in the natural rock pools of Papingo.
Finding the source of the Voidomatis River—recognized as Europe’s cleanest river—where crystal-clear, ice-cold water gushes right out from underground. It was super refreshing to swim in this pristine water! No wonder why Zagori is a well-known mineral water brand in Greece and Albania.
In between these activities, we took our time wandering through various sleepy mountain villages and crossing the region's elegant, historic stone arch bridges.
Serendipity at the Feast of Agia Paraskevi
One of the biggest surprises of the entire trip was stumbling upon a traditional festival in Monodendri: the Feast of Agia Paraskevi. Held annually over two days, it celebrates the local patron saint, Saint Paraskevi.
We only found out about it because we decided to take an aimless walk around the village. Noticing locals setting up tables and equipment in the main square, we asked a local shopkeeper what was going on. That was how we learned about the celebration. We immediately adjusted our plans for the day: we went back to our guesthouse for an afternoon nap (to recoup some energy after catching a 5:00 AM bus from Përmet that morning), so we could return at 10:00 PM for the festivities.
The festival turned out to be an incredible experience. The village square was packed shoulder-to-shoulder, as if people from across the entire Zagori region had gathered here. At the centre, musicians played and sang local folk songs while people joined hands in large, rotating circles to dance. Others sat at long tables feasting on fresh souvlaki and drinks. We could see extended families and old friends reuniting and catching up.
The deep notes of the clarinet, the smell of barbecue smoke drifting through the cool night, and the laughter echoing off the stone houses all blended together—carving an unforgettable mark into my memory of that mountain night. It was easily one of the most genuine and authentic cultural experiences of our whole journey.
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